When Otto meets a dingbot (www.girlgeniusonline.com) then the result can only be a DingbOtto.
The secondary reason for designing this, other than I have a liking for small crazy robots, is to allow holding a bigger battery pack. My first Otto ran with no problem off an external power feed, even from a powerbank, but could not run off its internal 16340 battery. It would work with 2 servos attached, occasionally with 3, but never with 4. This holds a double 18650 battery shield. I will post a real photo rather than just renderings once I have finished painting the model. At the moment it is just a pile of PLA pieces.
Part designs are available at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4788924.
The secondary reason for designing this, other than I have a liking for small crazy robots, is to allow holding a bigger battery pack. My first Otto ran with no problem off an external power feed, even from a powerbank, but could not run off its internal 16340 battery. It would work with 2 servos attached, occasionally with 3, but never with 4. This holds a double 18650 battery shield. I will post a real photo rather than just renderings once I have finished painting the model. At the moment it is just a pile of PLA pieces.
Part designs are available at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4788924.
This meant there was no support for any of the internal mountings, but they came out fine. I snapped one of the support posts for the arduino shield at a printing layer flaw as these were originally just the cylindrical posts, so added additional bracing into the design on Thingiverse.
One of the settings within the slicer I use (Cura) is whether to print perimeter walls from the inside out, or the outside in. This was printed outside in, which is the default, but I think the bowls might be printable without supports if the perimeters are printed the other way - inside on top of the previous layer, working outwards. I will try this at some point over the next few days, also incorporating a few more tweaks - trimming back the clips that hold the sphere together and moving the bluetooth module slightly to allow more room for the connector (as mentioned as needed in the inventor competition entry) and also loosening the clips which hold the LED matrix by half a mm or so - getting the balance right between allowing to flex enough to get the clip open, and making it strong enough that it does not snap is tricky.
My printer is a TronXY X5SA Pro, which is a good mid-range printer, but certainly not one which produces flawless prints.
Do you just start with a compacted pile of flour slightly larger than you need the support to be, and the print head brushes away the excess? I cannot see how you would keep enough flour in place to support several layers up after printing the first few layers, and how would you get adhesion to the printer plate?
Alternatively, if the flour is formed into a paste and then dried, how do you get the accuracy required?