Birger T Otto Master Builder

321

Wannabe Engineer

Curios about what is in the OLED- or GLCD- bitmap but don't having one ready to use?!!
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Maybe this sketch has the answer, load into your Arduino and after uploading open the Serial Monitor with 9600 Baud.
Have Fun too

Blockly Animation from Oscar Ferruz as Arduino sketch for Bill SCHONFELDER's OLED Display ;-)

Hi Bill SCHONFELDER, I bought an E-Book for you ;-)
I didn't play with the player yet. And of course there are many reasons to catch unwanted noise to an audio player or an amplifier. It starts with unshielded wires, then how the power is distributed (there should be a central Gnd connection) and a noisy / rippled supply voltage.

When looking at your Bork schematic again: the power for the player should be connected directly at the power pins of the AMP. If your cabling is like in the drawing, then the wires are like antennas, catching the "noise" from the ambient. The audio wires between player and AMP must be as short as possible or even better shielded, where the shield must be connected only at the Gnd pin of the AMP. Tipp: an old computer CD drive could have the shielded wire, you'll need for the audio signals.

A solution to protect the Arduino's build in voltage regulator from to much current drawn by the servos:

I cut that +5 Volt track on the PCB back (see photo arrow), so that the V pins from the digital connectors are separated from the +5 Volt of the rest of the V pins and the Arduino's 5 Volt.

You can now supply the Arduino from Battery at the Vin pins, and supply the servos over an extra voltage regulator (like an ubec) as shown on the photo too.

The capacitors were a test, to stabilize / denoising the voltagesupply for the noisesensor and the bluetooth modul - didn't help anyway..*

Addition Edit March 4th: Video and test sketch showing power supply by 4 AA Batteries to the cut off '+'-track where the servos are connected to. An extra wire connects the +6 volts to the Vin pin to supply the nano and the OLED display.

Edit March 5th: The sketch was so faulty.. but because it worked I didn't notice before upload.

Playing with Bill SCHONFELDER's Shield Sketch


I copied the bytes of the bitmap under the bitmap, so that there are two bitmaps (with the same content) in one bitmap array. If there are two or more bitmaps inside one array you could display the bitmaps with "display.drawBitmap(0, 0, bitmap + number_of_bitmap * 1024, 128, 64, WHITE);" Where number_of_bitmap starts with 0 and may go up to about 15..17 depending on the other code to do.
Maybe this is a useful hint for your Blockly sketch too.

an updated Calibration Serial Sketch that supports also the Robot Lee's Head and with a testing mode to let the Servos run and don't miss the distance measuring to determine which distance the steps make. Have Fun..

Otto9_BlueTest is an advanced version of and maybe a replacement for Otto_BLE_test.

If you are also curious what is received, when you tap the buttons inside the OttoDIY App, this Sketch could help you. Because the Serial Monitor doesn't do a "carriage return" that would place the cursor back at the beginning of the current line, all sent commands are printed one after the other in one line.
BlueTest will automatically append a "New Line" character to the received command data, so every command should be printed in a new line.
The sketch contains also an Include File, where I listed and named some commands for the Otto Humanoid.

Otto9_TestSerial Sketch

Edit Feb.24.'21: Preprocessor doesn't compare characters, fixed the included config.h file.

The purpose is to test the matrices and the sensors of an Otto.
Read the comments for further information and how to switch to the recommended connections of the servos and the sensors.

For trimming and testing the Servos use the Calibration sketch.

For the Bluetooth setup and testing there is a sketch BLE_AT_Test, an extended version 'Otto9_BlueTest' will follow soon.

When coding and testing the TestSerial Sketch I connected the 3,3 Volt to Pin A7 to have a constant on board testing/reference voltage.
While coding the supply voltage comes from the computer's USB port only - that should be but isn't 5 Volt at all - it is rather tzhe same as a supply voltage from 4 NiCd Accus without a power booster. Well - if you don't know and use the exact supply voltage's value that in the Arduino core is also the reference voltage AREF, you won't get exact voltage measures results (see Test No. 8).

Good luck, have fun and stay healthy.. and use the comments to this post.

Otto9_TestSerial Sketch Preview Video

What is the Battery Reader Library good for..?!

I connected the 3,3Volt pin to the analog pin A7:
- measure 3,3 V pin with digital multimeter says 3,24V

- My testing code gives:
Otto's real supply voltage = 4597 mV
voltage @pin A7 (Vcc 5,0V) = 3491 mV & w. real Vcc = 3209 mV
Otto Battery Voltage = 2.1596679687 V
Otto Battery Level = 0.0000000000 %

That seems like garbage for me,
but with 10 digits past the colon..

The Battery Reader should be used with the LiPo powersupply
https://www.ottodiy.com/store/products/battery-charger-power-booster-with-switch
but how should/does the monitoring of it work?