Hi Bill SCHONFELDER, yet another idea for a biped; I was very impressed when I saw it in summer 2015 in Hannover..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDGIvwpDNNo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDGIvwpDNNo
1,220
Wannabe Engineer
Birger T Master Builder
Born 1959 and living in Bavaria Germany, addicted to Lego, electronics and MCU programming. Too many ideas to do in the rest of my live.
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📝 Post
ArduinoFound in the comments of an "elektor"-article:
RS-elc vor 1 Monat
Arduino IDE version compiler effects
After some speed limit testing I found that the code for this project runs about 20% more efficient when compiled with the Arduino IDE 1.04 ( that was used) compared to the same code compiled with the newer IDE version 1.8.12.
So the newer IDE produces slower code here, resulting in more processor load.
RS-elc vor 1 Monat
Arduino IDE version compiler effects
After some speed limit testing I found that the code for this project runs about 20% more efficient when compiled with the Arduino IDE 1.04 ( that was used) compared to the same code compiled with the newer IDE version 1.8.12.
So the newer IDE produces slower code here, resulting in more processor load.
📝 Post
Remix3D PrintingIllustration servo legs for Camilo Parra Palacio :
the "Cat"-box shall be the body, one servo at the top of the leg with it's arm mounted at (inside) the body.
Servos should be (much easier) screwed from outside the legs.
In the leg is enough space for storing the servo wires and to add an extra LED for leg illumination.
If the Otto gets wider hips, the steps could be bigger for faster movement.
Would also be nice to assemble the batteries outside the body, so battery change can be made without surgery through the wires in the body.
the "Cat"-box shall be the body, one servo at the top of the leg with it's arm mounted at (inside) the body.
Servos should be (much easier) screwed from outside the legs.
In the leg is enough space for storing the servo wires and to add an extra LED for leg illumination.
If the Otto gets wider hips, the steps could be bigger for faster movement.
Would also be nice to assemble the batteries outside the body, so battery change can be made without surgery through the wires in the body.
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BlocklyOnline Blockly - Out of Order?
1. In the past I could upload (Open) a bloc-file from my computer, that doesn't work now.
2. There two kinds of scrollbars in the browser (firefox), the (visible) orange one is for moving the sketch left / right. But at startup there is no one for moving the sketch up/down.
Now there is a grey one too to move the blockly frame in the browser. You have to move the frame to the left, to see the orange scrollbar for sketch moving up/down. No matter how big the browser window is, the Blockly frame is always bigger.
1. In the past I could upload (Open) a bloc-file from my computer, that doesn't work now.
2. There two kinds of scrollbars in the browser (firefox), the (visible) orange one is for moving the sketch left / right. But at startup there is no one for moving the sketch up/down.
Now there is a grey one too to move the blockly frame in the browser. You have to move the frame to the left, to see the orange scrollbar for sketch moving up/down. No matter how big the browser window is, the Blockly frame is always bigger.
📝 Post
BatteryElectronicsI made a SEX Video for you - Strange Electronics eXperience:
Measuring the voltage between the batteryholder's plus and the IO board's plus when Servos are moving - the voltage over ONE connection (wires, switch, pin) is about 0.1 to 0.4 volts.
Assuming the minus side is the same then there are up to 0.8 volts eaten by the wiring between battery and servo connector.
Measuring the voltage between the batteryholder's plus and the IO board's plus when Servos are moving - the voltage over ONE connection (wires, switch, pin) is about 0.1 to 0.4 volts.
Assuming the minus side is the same then there are up to 0.8 volts eaten by the wiring between battery and servo connector.
📝 Post
BlocklyTrying to simplify the animation in (online) Blockly.
All previous bitmaps (Frame1[]..Frame10[]) are stored as only one bitmap "frames[]" now. For the rest read screenshot.
All previous bitmaps (Frame1[]..Frame10[]) are stored as only one bitmap "frames[]" now. For the rest read screenshot.
Curios about what is in the OLED- or GLCD- bitmap but don't having one ready to use?!!
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Maybe this sketch has the answer, load into your Arduino and after uploading open the Serial Monitor with 9600 Baud.
Have Fun too
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Maybe this sketch has the answer, load into your Arduino and after uploading open the Serial Monitor with 9600 Baud.
Have Fun too
Blockly Animation from Oscar Ferruz as Arduino sketch for Bill SCHONFELDER's OLED Display ;-)
📝 Post
ElectronicsHi Bill SCHONFELDER, I bought an E-Book for you ;-)
I didn't play with the player yet. And of course there are many reasons to catch unwanted noise to an audio player or an amplifier. It starts with unshielded wires, then how the power is distributed (there should be a central Gnd connection) and a noisy / rippled supply voltage.
When looking at your Bork schematic again: the power for the player should be connected directly at the power pins of the AMP. If your cabling is like in the drawing, then the wires are like antennas, catching the "noise" from the ambient. The audio wires between player and AMP must be as short as possible or even better shielded, where the shield must be connected only at the Gnd pin of the AMP. Tipp: an old computer CD drive could have the shielded wire, you'll need for the audio signals.
I didn't play with the player yet. And of course there are many reasons to catch unwanted noise to an audio player or an amplifier. It starts with unshielded wires, then how the power is distributed (there should be a central Gnd connection) and a noisy / rippled supply voltage.
When looking at your Bork schematic again: the power for the player should be connected directly at the power pins of the AMP. If your cabling is like in the drawing, then the wires are like antennas, catching the "noise" from the ambient. The audio wires between player and AMP must be as short as possible or even better shielded, where the shield must be connected only at the Gnd pin of the AMP. Tipp: an old computer CD drive could have the shielded wire, you'll need for the audio signals.
A solution to protect the Arduino's build in voltage regulator from to much current drawn by the servos:
I cut that +5 Volt track on the PCB back (see photo arrow), so that the V pins from the digital connectors are separated from the +5 Volt of the rest of the V pins and the Arduino's 5 Volt.
You can now supply the Arduino from Battery at the Vin pins, and supply the servos over an extra voltage regulator (like an ubec) as shown on the photo too.
The capacitors were a test, to stabilize / denoising the voltagesupply for the noisesensor and the bluetooth modul - didn't help anyway..*
Addition Edit March 4th: Video and test sketch showing power supply by 4 AA Batteries to the cut off '+'-track where the servos are connected to. An extra wire connects the +6 volts to the Vin pin to supply the nano and the OLED display.
Edit March 5th: The sketch was so faulty.. but because it worked I didn't notice before upload.
Edit March 8th: A new test sketch "ServoUStest" to figure out how much servos (up to 7) can be driven at the same time. The servos are to be connected to pins 4 to 10 and a beeper should be connected to Pin 13. When powering up (and after every reset) the beeper sounds and the attached servos start moving.
I cut that +5 Volt track on the PCB back (see photo arrow), so that the V pins from the digital connectors are separated from the +5 Volt of the rest of the V pins and the Arduino's 5 Volt.
You can now supply the Arduino from Battery at the Vin pins, and supply the servos over an extra voltage regulator (like an ubec) as shown on the photo too.
The capacitors were a test, to stabilize / denoising the voltagesupply for the noisesensor and the bluetooth modul - didn't help anyway..*
Addition Edit March 4th: Video and test sketch showing power supply by 4 AA Batteries to the cut off '+'-track where the servos are connected to. An extra wire connects the +6 volts to the Vin pin to supply the nano and the OLED display.
Edit March 5th: The sketch was so faulty.. but because it worked I didn't notice before upload.
Edit March 8th: A new test sketch "ServoUStest" to figure out how much servos (up to 7) can be driven at the same time. The servos are to be connected to pins 4 to 10 and a beeper should be connected to Pin 13. When powering up (and after every reset) the beeper sounds and the attached servos start moving.
